Off The Grid In The Borneo Rainforest

Our main goal with a visit to the island of Borneo was to visit the country of Brunei, checking off a more remote country in the area. Many visitors to the island will spend some time in Malaysia as well, but we focused our limited time with just Brunei. Coming in from the air, my first glances suggested a lot of money: golf courses, new construction homes and condos with pools and nice cars. Once on the ground, the main striking thing was how quiet the place seems. Continue reading Off The Grid In The Borneo Rainforest

Singapore, As Advertised

Getting to Singapore is a bit of a marathon…. Thirty hours transit, including a 7-hour flight AFTER the trans-Pacific flight to Tokyo. All of this had us pretty wiped out when we finally got there. Like many of the flight itineraries originating from the US, our flight had us touching down just after midnight. At that time, public transit is closed and the shops and stalls in the airport are a ghost town. Anticipating this, we had an overnight stay booked at the Crowne Plaza on the airport grounds. It was nice to just pass out directly and reset for the next day without being bothered by further land transit logistics. That morning was like waking from a coma, and we were both reasonably ready to head out for a full day around town. Continue reading Singapore, As Advertised

A Week In And Around The Golden Circle

Iceland has been the main objective on this itinerary. More specifically, we were seeking out some northern lights viewing with a few family members. We’ve also managed a lot of fun and incredible sightseeing, but if we had returned without any aurora sightings, it might have felt like a bit of a failure. Thankfully, we got lucky a few days into our visit. Continue reading A Week In And Around The Golden Circle

Mordor of the Balkans

Heading into the ninth and final country on our Balkan tour, we’ve seen some common themes emerge. Just like much of Europe, kebaps are very popular, but they prepare them totally different in the Balkans (they look like little breakfast sausages). Gelato presentation is elevated to a high art in order to draw your gaze. There is an “old town” every few kilometers, and every one of them is the best anywhere. They love hatchbacks, especially the VW Golf, in the Balkans possibly more than anywhere else in the world, and they keep the models from the 70s and 80s running strong. Oh yeah, and almost every car is diesel or LPG. Let’s see, what else… ah yes, the war a couple decades ago that tore the region apart. Continue reading Mordor of the Balkans

The Free Anarchist State of Metelkova

Ljubljana might just be the busiest city we’ve visited on this trip so far. My first impression of Slovenia is that it fits in far better with Austria and Hungary and Czech Republic than it does with Bosnia and Croatia. There are certainly remnants of communism in the architecture and urban design. Culturally, there are similarities with the other Balkan states, but the city mostly feels like the rest of Western Europe. Continue reading The Free Anarchist State of Metelkova

La Mordida en Bosnia

We picked up our rental car in Dubrovnik and headed northwest towards Bosnia. Our plan was to visit Medugorje for a few hours and continue on and overnight in Mostar. A word of caution: Do not trust Google maps in the Balkans. Seriously, our running joke now is to point at the most impossibly inclined rock-strewn dirt roads leading to dead ends and bordered by razor wire and say “Google Maps Road.”  Luckily, Martha insisted beforehand on going ultra old-school and getting a proper paper road atlas for the region. The first time Google tried to do us in, Map Lady had us going through a shortcut up a mountain that led to a “restricted” border crossing to Bosnia. Continue reading La Mordida en Bosnia

Dubrovnik Has Their Tourism Game On Point

Unlike some destinations that are flush with foreign visitors, Dubrovnik is absolutely ready to accommodate the traffic. There are plenty of comfortable places to stay inside or right outside of old town, ranging from cheap hostels to high-end hotels. The place has so many densely concentrated tourist attractions, it’s easy to forget that it is a functioning city with regular residents. Continue reading Dubrovnik Has Their Tourism Game On Point

Montenegro: Albania’s Wealthy Neighbor

After heading west from Shkoder, the landscape begins to change a bit. The countryside gets a little rougher, the small towns a little poorer. Dark mountains begin to rim the horizon. At the Albanian border crossing, big posters are plastered everywhere condemning corruption and bribery while a border guard goes car to car not-so-subtly shaking people down . Continue reading Montenegro: Albania’s Wealthy Neighbor

Here, There, and (hopefully) Back